Fur materials are in the structure of classification of technologies of the fur finishing

• Ph.D., Associate Proffessor of the Department of Design and Technology
  Vladivostok State University of Economics and Service
  Vladivostok. Russia

The modern variety of fur trim in the collections of leading designers and trade enterprises is due to the unlimited possibilities of this unique natural material. There appeared a large number of types and technologies of fur material production, which requires “compaction” of accumulated knowledge. Systematization is necessary for the successful use of research results in the practical activities of designers and clothing manufacturers. The purpose of the study is to determine the structural links between the technologies for manufacturing different kinds of fur materials in the general classification of fur finishing technologies. Research problems are formulated. A generalized scheme for systematization of fur finishing technologies as a sphere of the designer’s creative work has been formed. The criteria for the classification of fur materials in the form of fur semi-finished products, fur plates and fur fabric. The component composition of the “PMP” block (fur semi-finished product) is “PMP with decorative effects”. They are divided, depending on the stage of manufacturing the product into two groups: “Finishing stage PMP” and “Stage of tailoring products.” The criterion for dividing the first group is the object of impact. The criterion for the division of the second group is the type of decoration of the SMS (plane or volumetric decoration). The well-known technologies for decorating a fur semi-finished product have been systematized successfully in the structure of the general classification of fur finishing technologies by selected features. In the structure of the general classification of fur finishing technologies, technologies for obtaining fur material in the form of fur plates and fur fabric are systematized. The criterion for the division of the “Fur plate” group is the initial material for the formation of plates. As a result, two subgroups were formed: the formation of plates of fur pelt and the formation of plates of fur parts and fur elements of pelts. The greatest variety of technologies is contained in the first subgroup, which includes simple and complex methods of cutting. In the group “Fur fabric” included fur fabrics on a woven basis, knitted, lace, from matrix elements and others, which mainly produce from fur strips and threads. The most varied is the subgroup of openwork cloths. On the example of a relatively newly emerging technologies for the production of fur materials in the form of plates it has been demonstrated that new types of fur trim are well integrated into the created system.

Keywords: clothing, the fur finishing, fur materials, technologies of finishing clothes, fur plates, fur fabric, fur semi-finished product.